If there is one meal you should not rush in Turkey, it is breakfast. Locals call it kahvaltı, and at weekends it can easily last two hours. Most visitors try it in a café in the old city, which is nice, but the version Istanbul people love most happens outside the city, among trees, with fresh air and endless tea.
This guide explains what a Turkish village breakfast is, how to enjoy it, and how to have one in nature on the northern edge of Istanbul, close to Belgrade Forest and the Black Sea coast.
What is a Turkish village breakfast
A Turkish breakfast is not a single plate. It is a spread, called serpme, where dozens of small dishes are placed in the middle of the table and everyone shares. A “village breakfast” (köy kahvaltısı) is the countryside style of this spread, built around simple, natural produce.
Here is what you will usually find on the table:
- Cheeses. White cheese similar to feta, kaşar (a mild yellow cheese) and often one or two regional varieties.
- Olives. Black and green, sometimes cracked or marinated.
- Something sweet. Honey, kaymak (thick clotted cream), butter and a few homemade style jams. Honey with kaymak on fresh bread is the classic first bite.
- Fresh vegetables. Tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and greens.
- Hot dishes. Eggs, often cooked in a small pan, fried pastries such as sigara böreği, or gözleme flatbread.
- Bread and tea. Fresh bread and black tea served in small tulip shaped glasses, refilled throughout the meal.
The selection changes from place to place. What stays the same is the pace. Nobody hurries a serpme breakfast.
How to enjoy it like a local
A few small things make the experience better:
- Order for the table. A spread is meant to be shared. Ask how the breakfast is priced, per person or per table, and whether tea is included.
- Do not fill up early. Hot dishes often arrive after the cold plates. Leave some room.
- Keep the tea coming. Refills are part of the ritual. If you have had enough, place your teaspoon across the top of the glass.
- Plan for time. Give yourself at least an hour and a half. This is a morning activity, not a quick stop.
Why go north for breakfast with a view
Istanbul’s north feels like a different city. Belgrade Forest stretches between Sarıyer and Eyüpsultan, and beyond it there are villages, farms and green countryside reaching to the Black Sea coast. Uskumruköy, Zekeriyaköy and Kilyos are all in this area.
What makes it worth the trip:
- Real greenery. Instead of a street view, you eat surrounded by trees.
- Cooler air. In summer the forest edge usually feels fresher than the city centre.
- More to do. After breakfast you can walk in the forest, ride a horse, try an ATV tour or head to the coast. Our guide to things to do in Belgrade Forest has more ideas.
Getting there from central Istanbul
If you are staying around Taksim, Sultanahmet or Beşiktaş, the simplest way to reach the forest edge is by taxi or car, heading north towards Sarıyer. Kerem Bey Horse Farm is in Uskumruköy, 5-10 minutes from the Uskumruköy exit of the Northern Marmara Motorway.
Travel time depends heavily on traffic, which is lightest early in the morning. Ask your driver for Uskumruköy, Sarıyer, or share the location from our contact page. Public transport to this part of the city is limited, so a car is much easier.
When to go
Weekends are the busiest time for breakfast places in the north, with crowds building through the late morning. Some tips:
- Go early. An early start means easier roads and a better choice of tables.
- Book ahead at weekends. Especially if you are in a group.
- Try a weekday. If your schedule is flexible, weekday mornings are much calmer.
- Check the weather. If you want to sit outside, look at the forecast before you go. The Turkish State Meteorological Service at mgm.gov.tr has official forecasts.
- Bring a layer. Mornings by the forest can be cooler than they feel in the city.
Breakfast at Kerem Bey Horse Farm
Kerem Bey Horse Farm sits on the edge of Belgrade Forest in Sarıyer and has its own restaurant. In the morning it serves a Turkish village breakfast with cheeses, olives, jams and hot dishes. Later in the day there are grills, and tea and coffee are served all day.
You can sit at outdoor garden tables next to the horses, with the forest around you. Current menu and prices are on the online menu, linked from our restaurant page. You do not need to ride to come for breakfast.
Add a horse ride or ATV tour
If you want more than a meal, it is easy to add an activity before or after breakfast.
| Activity | Duration | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Arena ride (first step for small children) | 4 laps | 500 TL |
| Forest horse ride | 30 min | 1,500 TL |
| Lake horse ride | 45 min | 2,000 TL |
| Beach horse ride | 45-60 min | 3,500 TL |
| Forest ATV tour | 30 min | 2,000 TL |
| Forest ATV tour | 45 min | 2,500 TL |
ATV prices are per ATV, and a passenger can ride on the back for 500 TL per ATV. Horse rides are guided, and helmets and equipment are provided by the farm. If you have never ridden, the 30 minute forest ride is a gentle start. See all options on the horse riding tours and ATV tours pages.
A long ride straight after a big breakfast can feel heavy, so for longer routes many people ride first and eat after. For more on combining the two, read our guide to horse riding and breakfast. Sunset beach rides are the most popular time of day, and in bad weather rides are moved to another day for safety.
Booking
Kerem Bey Horse Farm is open every day from 09:00 to 19:00 and closed on Thursdays. To reserve a table or a ride, message +90 546 414 00 89 on WhatsApp in English, or use the form on our booking page. At weekends, writing a few days ahead makes it much easier to get the time you want.