Most lists of things to do in Istanbul stop at the mosques, the bazaars and a Bosphorus cruise, and most visitors never see the city’s Black Sea coast. They stay between Sultanahmet, Taksim and the Bosphorus, and that is a shame, because a short drive north takes you somewhere that feels like a different country. Long sandy beaches, forest, small villages and fresh sea air.
Kilyos is the best known spot on this coast. It belongs to the Sarıyer district on the European side, and locals have escaped here in summer for decades. Here is what you can do there, what to know before you go and how to fit it into a day.
Getting to Kilyos
Kilyos is at the northern edge of the city, so plan it as a half day or full day trip rather than a quick stop.
By taxi or car. This is the simplest way from Taksim, Beşiktaş or Sultanahmet. You head north towards Sarıyer. Traffic in Istanbul changes a lot by time of day, so leaving in the morning is usually easier. If you are driving to the horse farm, the Uskumruköy exit of the Northern Marmara Motorway (Kuzey Marmara Otoyolu) is 5-10 minutes from the farm.
By public transport. It is possible, but it usually means at least one change and takes longer. Check a journey planner app on the day of travel.
Ride apps and taxis back. Getting a taxi back from the coast can take longer than in the city centre, especially in the evening. Agree on your return before you go, or keep the number of a taxi you used.
Kilyos beach
The main reason people come is the long sandy beach facing the open Black Sea. In summer much of it is run by beach clubs that rent sunbeds and umbrellas, and entry may be charged. It is worth checking which part you want to go to before you arrive.
The most important thing to know is the current. The Black Sea at Kilyos can be dangerous on wavy days, and this coast is very different from a calm Mediterranean bay. Swim only where lifeguards are on duty, follow the flags, and stay out of the water when the red flag is up. Keep children close even in shallow water.
The water is cooler than in southern Turkey. On a hot August day that feels great. In early June it can be a surprise.
Walking along the coast
You do not need to swim to enjoy Kilyos. A walk along the sand in the early morning or late afternoon, with the sound of the waves and the forest behind you, is reason enough to come.
Outside summer the beach is almost empty. On a calm autumn day it is one of the most peaceful places in Istanbul. The light gets beautiful towards sunset, so bring a camera. The wind on the coast is often stronger than in the city, so take an extra layer whatever the season.
A horse ride on the beach
If you want a memory you will not get anywhere else in Istanbul, see the coast from horseback. Kerem Bey Horse Farm is in Uskumruköy, right next to Kilyos, and runs guided beach horse rides. The ride starts on a forest trail and then comes down to the Black Sea sand.
You do not need any experience. The beginner beach ride goes at a calm pace, helmets and equipment are provided by the farm and a guide stays with you the whole time. Sunset rides are the most popular, and weekend sunset slots fill up quickly.
For more on the farm’s location and other rides in the area, see our guide to horse riding near Kilyos.
ATV tours in the forest and on the coast
For something faster, ATV tours run from the same farm. A guide rides in front, and before you set off you get a short driving briefing and a test drive, plus a helmet and protective gear. One passenger can ride on the back, so two people can share one ATV. Routes are on the ATV tours page.
Prices at a glance
| Activity | Duration | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Beginner beach ride (horse) | 45-60 minutes | 3,500 TL |
| Long beach ride, experienced (horse) | 90-120 minutes | 4,000 TL |
| Beginner forest ride (horse) | 30 minutes | 1,500 TL |
| ATV forest tour | 30 minutes | 2,000 TL |
| ATV beach and Belgrade tour | 60-90 minutes | 4,000 TL |
| ATV passenger | per tour | 500 TL |
ATV prices are per vehicle. The full list is on the prices page.
Nearby places worth adding
Belgrade Forest. Istanbul’s largest forest lies just south of Kilyos, with walking trails, Ottoman era stone dams and shaded paths. See our Belgrade Forest guide.
Zekeriyaköy. A green, leafy neighbourhood next to Kilyos with cafes and breakfast places. A good stop for coffee after the beach.
Rumeli Feneri and Garipçe. Two villages where the Bosphorus opens into the Black Sea, known for sea view fish restaurants and breakfast. From Garipçe you can see the Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge up close.
Rumelikavağı. A village on the Bosphorus shore with fish restaurants, a nice stop if you return to the city along the water.
To link several of these into one route, read things to do in Sarıyer.
When to go
Summer is beach season, busy at weekends. Autumn is the nicest time for a calm coastal day, with mild weather and empty sand. Spring brings a green forest and soft weather, though the sea is still cold. Winter is windy and quiet, and horse and ATV tours are postponed in bad weather for safety, so ask before you come.
A sample day trip
- Morning Taxi north from the city, beach ride or ATV tour at the farm
- Late morning Turkish village breakfast at the farm restaurant
- Afternoon Walk on Kilyos beach, or a swim in summer
- Evening Fish dinner in Garipçe or Rumeli Feneri, then back to the city
Want a sunset ride? Swap it around. Beach or forest in the morning, the horse ride in the late afternoon, dinner after.
What to wear
Long, comfortable trousers and closed shoes for riding or ATV. Shorts and sandals are not suitable. A light jacket is useful on the coast in any season.
Booking
You can book through the booking form on the site or message +90 546 414 00 89 on WhatsApp in English. Tell us the date, how many people, whether you have ridden before and the time you prefer. The farm is open every day from 09:00 to 19:00, closed on Thursdays.
