Most visitors see the historic peninsula, Galata and a Bosphorus cruise, then fly home without knowing that Istanbul has a forest and a wild coastline. Both are in Sarıyer. If you have a spare day, or you are visiting for the second time and want something different, the north of the city is worth the trip.
This guide gives you a quick picture of the area, a few things to do and a simple day plan built around the forest and the sea.
Where Sarıyer is
Sarıyer is the district at the northern end of the European side. In the south it follows the upper Bosphorus, and in the north it opens onto the Black Sea. Between the two lies Belgrade Forest. Villages such as Kilyos, Zekeriyaköy and Uskumruköy sit around the forest and the coast.
The feel changes quickly as you drive north. Apartment blocks give way to trees, and the air gets cooler and fresher, especially in summer.
Things to do in Sarıyer
Walk in Belgrade Forest
Belgrade Forest (Belgrad Ormanı) is one of the largest green areas in Istanbul. At weekends it is full of walkers, runners and families with picnic baskets. Rules and entry points can change, so check the current information before you go.
See the Black Sea at Kilyos
Kilyos is the best known stretch of Sarıyer’s Black Sea coast. The sea here is open and often windy, very different from the calm Bosphorus. In summer people come for the beaches, and outside the season it is a good place for a quiet walk by the water.
Go horse riding
This is where we come in. Kerem Bey Horse Farm in Uskumruköy offers guided rides through the forest, down to a lake and along the Black Sea beach. The forest ride in Belgrade Forest takes 30 minutes and suits complete beginners. The beach ride is the one people remember, especially at sunset. Our horse riding in Istanbul guide compares every route.
Drive an ATV
If you prefer engines to horses, the ATV tours use tracks at the edge of Belgrade Forest and routes out to the coast. Tours start at 2,000 TL for 30 minutes, with a short driving briefing first. The ATV tour guide has all the details.
Sit down to a Turkish breakfast
A long weekend breakfast is a Turkish tradition, and the north of the city is a popular place for it. At the farm restaurant you can have a village breakfast spread or grills after your ride, with the horses nearby.
A simple day plan
Here is one way to spend a day in Sarıyer. Adjust it to your pace.
Morning. Head north early. Weekend traffic out of the city builds up towards midday, so an early start pays off.
Late morning. Arrive at the farm and go for a ride. First-timers can take the forest or lake ride. If you are in a group and not everyone wants to ride, some of you can take an ATV tour at the same time.
Midday. Stay for breakfast or a grill at the farm restaurant.
Afternoon. Walk in Belgrade Forest or drive to the coast at Kilyos to see the Black Sea.
Evening. If you saved the beach ride for sunset, this is the moment. Then head back into the city.
When to go
Sarıyer works in every season, but each one feels different. In summer the forest trails are shaded and noticeably cooler than the city, and the coast is at its busiest. Spring brings fresh green leaves and mild days, a lovely time for a longer ride. In autumn the forest turns gold and brown, and the light at sunset is soft, which makes it a favourite time for photos. Winter days are shorter and the trails can be muddy, so dress for it and check the official weather forecast before you go.
Weekends are the busiest days everywhere in the north of the city. If your schedule allows, a weekday visit is calmer on the roads and on the trails.
Getting there
The farm is at Uskumruköy, Ayvacık Sk., 34450 Sarıyer. The simplest route is the Northern Marmara Motorway (Kuzey Marmara Otoyolu). From the Uskumruköy toll gates it is 5-10 minutes to the farm. If you need the map pin, ask us on WhatsApp.
Planning a celebration
The farm also hosts birthdays, engagement dinners and group days out. If you are marking a special occasion during your trip, the events page has the details, or tell us on WhatsApp what you have in mind.
Booking
You can book rides, lessons and ATV tours on WhatsApp in English. Use the booking form to prepare the message, or write to +90 546 414 00 89. Tell us the activity, the number of people and your date, and we will confirm the time.