Winter is a good time to visit Istanbul. But after a few days of museums, mosques and covered bazaars, many visitors start looking for some fresh air.
The good news is that you do not have to leave the city to find it. The north of Istanbul is covered in forest and runs along the Black Sea, and in winter it is quiet, green and surprisingly peaceful. This guide covers what you can do outdoors in Istanbul in winter, how to plan around the weather and what to wear.
What Istanbul winters are like
Istanbul winters are usually cool, wet and windy, with grey days mixed with bright, clear ones. Snow falls in some winters, often for a few days at a time. The north of the city, closer to the Black Sea, tends to be a little colder and windier than the centre.
That means the key to a great winter day outdoors is choosing the right day. A dry, sunny winter morning in the forest can be one of the best moments of your trip. A stormy one is better spent indoors.
Before you head out, check the forecast and weather warnings on the Turkish State Meteorological Service website or your usual weather app. Days are short in winter too, so start in the morning and plan to be back before dark.
Getting north of the city
From Taksim, Beşiktaş or Sultanahmet, the easiest way to reach the forests and coast is by taxi or car, heading north towards Sarıyer. Public transport works but usually involves changes, so check a journey planner app on the day. If you drive to Kerem Bey Horse Farm, the Uskumruköy exit of the Northern Marmara Motorway (Kuzey Marmara Otoyolu) is 5-10 minutes from the farm.
A walk in Belgrade Forest
Belgrade Forest is Istanbul’s largest forest and in winter it is at its calmest. With fewer leaves on the trees, more light comes through, and the ponds in front of the old stone dams look lovely on a cold, clear morning.
A few tips for a winter walk.
- Wear waterproof shoes with good grip. Paths can be muddy and covered in wet leaves.
- Bring a hot drink in a flask.
- Keep the walk short and stay on the wide, marked paths.
- Phone signal can be weak in the forest, so let someone know your plans.
Our Belgrade Forest guide has more on what to see there.
The Black Sea coast in winter
In summer the beaches at Kilyos and along the Black Sea are packed. In winter they are almost empty. Standing on the sand and watching the waves on a windy day is a completely different side of Istanbul that most visitors never see.
Do not plan to swim. The Black Sea is cold in winter and often rough. Stay well back from the water’s edge, because waves can reach further up the beach than you expect.
A warm Turkish breakfast
After a cold walk, a long Turkish breakfast is the best reward. The villages around Sarıyer have plenty of breakfast places.
Kerem Bey Horse Farm has its own restaurant serving a Turkish village breakfast, grills, tea and coffee. You can come just to eat, or combine breakfast with a ride on the same morning. Our guide to horse riding and breakfast has a couple of sample plans.
Horse riding in winter
A ride through the forest on a crisp, sunny winter morning is something few visitors to Istanbul ever do. The trails are quiet and the cool air suits both horses and riders. Kerem Bey Horse Farm, on the edge of Belgrade Forest in Uskumruköy, Sarıyer, runs guided rides through the winter.
What you should know.
- Rides are postponed in bad weather. In rain, storms, strong wind or icy conditions, the ride is moved to another day for safety.
- Message before you come. Winter weather changes quickly. Send a message to +90 546 414 00 89 on WhatsApp, in English, to confirm your ride is going ahead.
- The ground can be muddy. After rain the forest trails are wet, so your shoes and trousers may get dirty.
- Shorter rides suit winter. The 30 minute forest ride or 45 minute lake ride are comfortable choices in the cold. Beach rides depend on the wind.
No experience is needed. Helmets and equipment are provided and a guide stays with you the whole time. All routes are on the horse riding tours page.
ATV tours in winter
ATV tours run in winter too, and for many people the mud is the best part. A guide rides in front, and before you start you get a short driving briefing, a test drive, a helmet and protective gear. One passenger can ride on the back.
Wear clothes you do not mind getting muddy and bring a spare pair of trousers and socks. Gloves and a neck warmer help a lot against the cold wind. Like horse rides, ATV tours are postponed in bad weather. See the ATV tours page for routes.
Winter prices
Prices stay the same in winter.
| Activity | Duration | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Arena ride | 4 laps | 500 TL |
| Beginner forest ride (horse) | 30 minutes | 1,500 TL |
| Beginner lake ride (horse) | 45 minutes | 2,000 TL |
| ATV forest tour | 30 minutes | 2,000 TL |
| ATV forest tour | 45 minutes | 2,500 TL |
| ATV passenger | per tour | 500 TL |
ATV prices are per vehicle. The full list is on the prices page.
What to wear
Layers work best for a winter day outdoors.
- Base layer. A thin top that does not hold sweat. Wool or synthetic is better than cotton.
- Mid layer. A fleece or warm jumper.
- Outer layer. A windproof, waterproof jacket. If you ride, it should not be too long or loose.
- Trousers. Long and flexible. Jeans get cold and heavy when wet.
- Shoes. Closed, waterproof boots or shoes. For riding, a flat sole with a small heel works best. Thick socks.
- Hands and head. Thin gloves still let you hold the reins. A thin hat or neck warmer that fits under a helmet.
For more detail, see what to wear horse riding.
A sample winter day
- Morning Taxi north, 30 minute forest ride or ATV tour at the farm
- Late morning A warm Turkish village breakfast
- Early afternoon A short walk in Belgrade Forest or a windy stop on the Black Sea coast
- Mid afternoon Head back to the city before dark
Booking
In winter, always check before you come. Message +90 546 414 00 89 on WhatsApp in English with the date, how many people and whether you have ridden before, or use the booking form on the site. The farm is open every day from 09:00 to 19:00, closed on Thursdays.